Chef Anatoly Komm is turning heads with an approach to gastronomy that is unashamedly ‘traditional Russian’ on the one hand, but exciting and contemporary on the other. Fans of Komm include Ferran Adrià, who praises the chef for turning clichéd Russian cuisine on its head by combining traditional dishes and contemporary techniques with spectacular results.
His beloved restaurant named Varvary is considered Moscow’s shrine to the art and science of molecular gastronomy. (The name means “barbarian” in Russian).
The tasting menus at Varvary are grouped under overarching themes. “A Tribute To All Grannies,” features nostalgic Soviet dishes—the aforementioned borscht, alongside other reinvented classics such as Herrings in Furs, and pelmeni. The “Back in the USSR” menu features notable tastes from within the former 15 republics of the Soviet Union, although omits certain countries’ offerings (such as Moldova or Belarus) for their lack of culinary prowess. Definitely gastronomy worth experiencing.
